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Why Lentils Are a Smart Choice - The Wall Street Journal

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I ASPIRE to cook the way Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton do. The authors of the Canal House cookbook series rustle up elegant meals seemingly without effort, using what they happen to have on hand.

HOW TO USE IT

Cook up a side for any protein. Cover lentils with cold water or stock, bring to a boil and simmer until tender. Season with salt, spices, lemon, vinaigrette—whatever piques your palate.

Build a beet salad. Wrap beets in foil and roast at 400 until easily pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Slip off skins, chop and serve on lentils cooked as directed above, tossed with olive oil and scallions.

Savor a soup. Sauté a chopped shallot until soft. Add ground cumin to taste, 1 cinnamon stick, raw brown lentils and stock to cover. Cook until lentils fall apart. Remove cinnamon stick, season and swirl in yogurt.

That style of cooking really resonates now (though breaking a sweat is understandable and forgiven). So I called Ms. Hirsheimer to ask about her pantry go-tos. Top of the list: lentils.

It’s easy to see why. High in protein, lentils are shelf stable and, like beans, their culinary cousins, versatile. They definitely beat beans on one point: prep time. Since they don’t require soaking before cooking as dried beans do, lentils are ready to eat in 30-45 minutes.

If it’s a traditional lentil soup you crave, Ms. Hirsheimer and Ms. Hamilton recommend adding “those good warm spices” such as cumin and cinnamon. But they mostly use lentils as the French do, dressed in vinaigrettes for a salad or as an accompaniment to fish or chicken. In their 2019 book, “Cook Something: Recipes to Rely On,” they suggest roasting a chicken rubbed with olive oil and fennel salt, and serving it atop a bed of warm lentils tossed with chopped preserved lemon and fresh mint. “After the bird is cooked we pour all the juices over the lentils and serve it on a big platter in the center of the table,” said Ms. Hirsheimer. “These days we all have time to kill. Why not sit at the table and let a good meal provide some comfort?”

NEED TO KNOW / 4 LENTIL VARIETIES

Brown/Green Lentils These mild lentils are made for soups and stews. They split easily and thicken the liquid.

Red/Orange Lentils Aka Egyptian or masoor dal, these are used in Indian cooking. They do not hold their shape for long and lend themselves to creamy porridges and spiced dips.

French (Puy) Lentils These dark-green lentils have a thick skin that helps them hold their shape. Ideal for salads or as a bed for salmon or chicken.

Black Lentils Also called Beluga because they resemble caviar, this tiny black variety (shown above) holds its shape and shines in soups and salads.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

What is your favorite way to prepare lentils? Join the conversation below.

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Why Lentils Are a Smart Choice - The Wall Street Journal
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